Contingency anchor
From CanyonWiki
A Contingency Anchor or Dynamic Anchor is a technique where the rope is rigged on the anchor so that it can be quickly and easily converted to a lowering system. In general, the rope is rigged with sufficient available rope to lower the rappeller to the ground if they become stuck anywhere on the rappel.
A contingency anchor can be quickly converted to a lowering system. This is useful if the rappeller gets stuck, if the rappeller is injured, or if insufficient rope was deployed in the first place. This technique is essential when rappelling near a waterfall where someone can be trapped under the waterfall; and is also good when a rappel leads into a swim, so that rope tension can be released when the rappeller becomes a swimmer.
Dynamic anchors are also useful in dry canyons where long hair or dry pack straps tend to blow around and can become caught in the rappel device.
Contingency anchors may use a load-releasing hitch to attach the rappel line to the anchor - often a Münter hitch. The hitch is secured with a safety knot, either a Mule knot or two half hitches. The subsequent loop is secured with a carabineer to the anchor webbing for further safety.
The Münter hitch and Mule is left in place for all but the last rappeller. The last rappeller de-rigs the contingency anchor, and re-rigs for either a double-strand rappel or a 'biner block and then descends.
When rigging the contingency anchor, be sure to run the rope through the rapide prior to setting the Münter hitch. This way the contingency anchor can be quickly de-rigged and the rope readied for descent by the last person. This also decreases the risk of dropping the rope while re-rigging.
- See ACA forum discussion for details and pictures.
- See Petzl for diagrams and details.
- A figure 8 can also be used to set an contingency anchor. See ACA article for pictures and details.
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