Carabiners
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ladomricerdo noletotr coraccodelno chireltro bochieltr oloorvil liracle aceldarre oucnaacellid tadarboc litavial chielbo Not all carabiners are created equal - or to be used like it either.
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[edit] Screw-lock Carabiners
Clockwise from upper left: Locking D, Locking HMS, rapide, rap ring.
Screw lock Carabiners LOCK by turning a sleeve on the gate that blocks the gate from opening. Locking carabiner are preferred when clipping into an anchor or rappel device. They keep the gate closed and are thus more reliable. A long rappel can over-tighten the locking mechanism. It is common practice to lock the mechanism and then back off just a touch prior to rappel.
Sand in canyons can jam any locking carabiner. This is the main reason the simple, screwgate mechanism is preferred to the fancier, auto-locking style carabiners. Jamming can be solved by a quick rinse in clean water.
There seems to be little point in bringing non-locking carabiner in canyons. Almost every use, even carrying stuff on your harness, is better accomplished by a locking carabiner. Alas, they are more expensive and slightly heavier than non-locking carabiners.
[edit] HMS Carabiners
HMS stands for Munter Hitch in German. These carabiners are used to connect your rappel device to your harness. If you are in a bind and lose your rappel device, you can use a Munter Hitch and descend safely. A Munter hitch is also useful for lowering injured, freaked out, beginner or underage canyoneers, and for hauling packs. HMS carabiners have a shape that allows the Munter Hitch to operate easily, while on non-HMS type carabineers, the knot rides to the spine and does not flow as freely.
[edit] Utility Carabiners
Utility Carabiners is a general name for carabiners that are NOT HMS style. They are used for clipping into anchors, safety lines and guide lines. They weigh less than HMS carabiners. They come in a D or Oval shape. The D shape has slightly better strength when the gate is open than the Oval (9kN vs 7kN), as the weight is better distributed along the spine. Both shapes of utility carabiners are much stronger when the gate is closed (22kN vs 9kN or 7kN). Locking the gate closed ensures they will remain at full strength. Setting an anchor or rappelling from a single, non-locking carabiner is strongly discouraged as the gate can open, significantly weakening the carabiner. This can unexpectedly occur when a "bouncing" force is applied to the carabiner, like with a jerky rappel. If used at all, non-locking carabineers should be used in opposing pairs. Wire-gate 'biners are useful when setting a bachman, as the cord/webbing slides in and out of the 'biner easily. Otherwise, leave them at home.
[edit] Rap Rings and Rapides
These are the disposable carabiners of canyoneering. They are cheaper than carabiners and are preferred when donating gear to the canyon. A metal ring is placed on rappel anchors to make pulling the rope much easier, and to prevent damage to the rope and sling when a ring is not used.
Rap rings are made of a single ring of aluminum or steel. Soft aluminum rings are prone to destruction as you pull your sand-impregnated rope across the metal. Rap rings found on anchors in canyons should be carefully examined for wear before use.
Rapides are industrial carabiners. They can be purchased at most local hardware stores for a couple dollars and come in a variety of sizes. The 5/16" is generally used as it is large enough to pull the rope with minimum friction. This size rapide is heavier than a rap ring. However, it is usually cheaper and the narrower size works better when setting a 'biner block. As rapides are made of steel, they last longer in the canyons. Be careful when purchasing rapides at your local hardware store. Make sure they are rated to at least 1500 lbs. There's a lot of swing-set quality stuff out there you'd rather not rappel off.
[edit] Toy Carabiners
This is what you buy at the counter for a buck or two, and are for hanging your water bottle off your pack around campus, so you can look cool. Do not use these in canyons. They are very weak and unreliable. Consider how your former friend will feel when your cool-looking toy carabiner beans him with a water bottle from 100 feet up. Need I say more?
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